Large plants such as the Fiddle Leaf Fig and Bird of Paradise have deeper root systems and a greater volume of soil, meaning they take considerably longer to dry out. The most common cause of plant loss is root rot resulting from prolonged waterlogging. The rule is simple: only water when the soil is completely dry — if it still feels slightly damp, wait.

• Check Soil Moisture — Insert your finger or a wooden chopstick about 5 cm into the soil (go deeper for particularly large pots). Only water when it feels completely dry.
• Water Slowly and Thoroughly — Large pots should be watered 2–3 times in succession, allowing water to slowly seep through until it drains from the holes at the bottom.
• Drain Excess Water — After 15–20 minutes, pour away any water that has collected in the saucer to prevent root rot.

• Office (with air conditioning): Drier air — approximately every 7–10 days in spring/summer, and every 10–14 days in autumn/winter.
• Home (natural ventilation): Higher humidity — approximately every 10–14 days in spring/summer, and every 14–21 days in autumn/winter.
• Window-side position: Stronger light and faster evaporation mean more frequent watering is needed compared with spots further inside.

Different varieties require different light conditions. You can select the most suitable plant species based on the specific placement location.

• Avoid placing plants directly under air-con vents, as this can dry out and yellow the leaves.
• Meeting rooms typically lack sufficient natural light; opt for shade-tolerant varieties such as the Snake Plant.
• Reception lobbies featuring skylights or floor-to-ceiling windows make ideal showpiece positions for large plants like the Fiddle Leaf Fig.

• New leaves emerge smaller and paler; stems begin to stretch and etiolate.
• Lower leaves turn yellow and drop in large numbers.
• Growth stalls with no new leaves appearing over an extended period.

Indoor plants grow more slowly than those placed outdoors. Fertilising correctly keeps plants looking lush and encourages healthy new leaf growth. When fertilising, we recommend using half the stated dosage.

• Spring/Summer (Mar–Sep) — Growing Season: Fertilise every 6–8 weeks.
• Autumn/Winter (Oct–Feb) — Dormant Period: Pause or reduce fertilising by half.
• Newly Purchased Plants: No fertilising is required for the first 3–6 months, as slow-release fertiliser will have already been applied at the nursery.

When large plants are under stress, they display clear distress signals. Identifying and addressing these early can prevent plant loss and the need for costly replacements.

Indoor plants grow slowly, but once the roots have filled the pot or the soil’s nutrients are depleted, repotting becomes necessary. Office plants may be repotted every 1.5–2 years. Please enquire if you require repotting services.

• Roots are visibly protruding through the drainage holes or growing in circles across the soil surface.
• Soil dries out unusually quickly — within a day or two of watering — indicating the roots have filled the pot.
• Plant growth has stalled with no new leaves emerging over an extended period.
• White salt deposits or a crust have formed on the surface of the soil.
• The plant is visibly leaning and unstable in its pot.

1. Choose a New Pot — Select one that is only 5–8 cm larger in diameter than the current pot; going too large can lead to waterlogging and root rot. For offices, lightweight plastic or faux-ceramic pots are recommended for ease of handling.
2. Prepare Soil — Use a quality potting mix suited to large plants, incorporating perlite (approximately 20%) to improve aeration and drainage.
3. Remove the Plant — Gently lay the pot on its side, tap firmly around the rim, and ease the plant out with its root ball intact. Never tug hard on the stems.
4. Inspect the Roots — Carefully loosen any circling roots, and trim away those that are black, rotten or excessively long.
5. Place in New Pot — Add a drainage layer of clay pebbles or gravel to the base (approximately 3–5 cm), add fresh potting mix, position the plant, then fill in around it and lightly firm the soil.
6. Water to Settle — Water thoroughly, then move to a cool, well-ventilated spot and allow 5–7 days to recover before resuming normal care.

Hong Kong’s humid climate, combined with constantly air-conditioned offices and varied home environments, calls for a considered approach to large plant care. Below are our practical tips for local conditions:

• Air conditioning may lower humidity levels, sometimes causing leaf edges to brown. Trim as appropriate and consider humidity-boosting measures.
• Never place plants directly under air-con vents; maintain a distance of at least 2 metres.
• On weekends when the air con is switched off, move plants to a more naturally ventilated position.
• Meeting room plants should be rotated periodically to brighter spots to allow them to “recharge”.

• West-facing windows receive intense afternoon sun in summer; move large plants at least 1 metre away from the glass, or use curtains to provide shade.
• Grease from cooking can clog leaf stomata; large plants are not recommended in kitchen areas.
• Bathrooms tend to have high humidity, making them well-suited to shade-tolerant varieties such as Monstera.

• Spring/Summer (Mar–Sep): Peak growing season — increase watering frequency and commence fertilising.
• Spring Dampness (回南天): Pause watering, run a dehumidifier, and inspect the undersides of leaves for signs of pests.
• Autumn/Winter (Oct–Feb): Reduce watering, pause fertilising, and avoid placing plants near heaters.
• Typhoon / Heavy Rain Days: Ensure window-side plants are sheltered from rain splashing in, which can lead to waterlogging and root rot.

• Hong Kong tap water contains chlorine; allow water to stand in an open container overnight before use, or opt for filtered water directly.
• Large pots require a significant amount of water; consider collecting air-con condensate for watering — it is at room temperature and free of chlorine.