Plant DoctorCheck yellow leaves, leaf drop, root rot and pests

Likely cause: Persistently wet mix or restricted drainage may be one direction behind the yellowing.

When it fits: The mix is still wet and more than one older leaf is affected. This does not confirm root damage.

• Pause watering while the mix is still wet.
• Empty standing water and keep the plant in stable light with airflow.

Likely cause: Dry mix, light and environmental change all need checking; leaf colour alone is not a watering instruction.

When it fits: The mix is clearly dry and several leaves or new leaves are affected together.

• If the plant's appropriate dry point has been reached, water slowly until drainage runs through, then empty the saucer.
• Keep the position stable and do not water repeatedly straight away.

Likely cause: When only the lowest one or two older leaves are affected, normal ageing remains a reasonable possibility.

When it fits: The change is limited to older leaves and new growth is not declining at the same time.

• Keep the position stable and remove a leaf only when it is fully yellow or detached.
• Water from the mix condition, not from the number of yellow leaves.

Likely cause: Dry air or a cold AC draft may be contributing to tip damage.

When it fits: Crisp damage starts at the tips or edges and the plant sits in dry or cold airflow.

• Move the plant out of direct airflow while keeping light stable.
• If raising humidity, change the surrounding air and let foliage dry fully.

Likely cause: Strong light or heat may create a scorch-like appearance, but moisture and pests still need checking.

When it fits: Damage is concentrated on the light-facing side after a recent move into stronger light.

• Use suitable bright filtered light and acclimate gradually; keep undamaged leaves.

Likely cause: Fertiliser or water salts building up are worth suspecting first

• Stop feeding, then flush the mix

Likely cause: A local dry spot can relate to light, leaf damage or an environmental change.

When it fits: The spot is dry, stable and not spreading quickly.

• Keep light appropriate and remove only tissue that is fully dead and loose.

Likely cause: Soft or spreading spots call for less leaf wetness and a root/moisture check, not an instant disease label.

When it fits: Spots feel wet, expand or occur with persistently wet mix.

• Empty standing water and keep foliage dry with airflow.
• Record photos and separate visibly worsening foliage from other plants as a precaution.

Likely cause: Bacterial or fungal leaf spot is more likely

• Remove affected leaves, keep foliage dry, isolate

Likely cause: Nutrient availability or media pH is one possible direction, but it is not a reason to fertilize blindly.

When it fits: Yellowing is mainly between the veins, especially on new leaves.

• Keep light stable and record new growth.

Likely cause: Whole-leaf yellowing calls for a moisture, light, leaf-age and pest check.

When it fits: The colour change is across the leaf rather than a clear vein pattern.

• Decide about watering from the mix condition and keep the position stable.

Likely cause: Iron shortage or locked-up iron, often linked to high pH

• Check the mix and irrigation water; do not just add more fertiliser

Likely cause: Sunburn is more likely

• Move back or filter the light

Likely cause: Possible leaf spot disease

• Read brown or black leaf spots and keep leaves dry

Likely cause: May relate to dry air, salts or water

• Read brown leaf tips

Likely cause: Mineral or salt residue; Oregon State says transpiration can leave white salts

• Wipe with a damp cloth; note your water and fertiliser

Likely cause: Powdery mildew; UC IPM describes a white powdery growth on leaf surfaces

• Remove badly affected leaves, space plants out and improve airflow

Likely cause: Mealybugs; wax filaments give them a white cottony look

• Remove individually; see mealybugs

Likely cause: Possibly nitrogen

• Rule out roots and watering, then see fertiliser basics

Likely cause: Possibly phosphorus (sources differ on where it shows first)

• Check temperature and roots; phosphorus deficiency is rare in landscapes

Likely cause: Possibly potassium

• Rule out salt build-up, then feed to the label

Likely cause: Possibly chronic underwatering

• Water thoroughly; see drooping plants

Likely cause: Possibly bright light plus dry air, as with Maranta

• Move back from the glass and watch for changes

Likely cause: Possibly cold or cold, dry air

• Move away from gaps and cold air; see cold snaps

Likely cause: Commonly thrips; UC IPM describes silvery scarring and dark frass

• Tap a new leaf over white paper; use yellow or blue sticky traps

Likely cause: Possibly broad or cyclamen mites (flower-crop source)

• Check buds and leaf folds; mites are very hard to see, so consider expert help

Likely cause: Possibly aphids

• Check undersides and tips; isolate if found

Likely cause: Slugs or snails commonly leave irregular holes and a silvery trail

• Check at night with a torch, around the pot rim, base and saucer

Likely cause: Possibly caterpillars (source is vegetable crops)

• Check both sides of leaves and pick them off

Likely cause: Possibly adult vine weevils

• Check at night, and look for white C-shaped grubs in the mix

Likely cause: Mealybugs; UC IPM describes them as wax-covered insects living in colonies in sheltered spots

• Dab single insects with a cotton swab and alcohol, then recheck daily; see mealybugs

Likely cause: Scale insects; soft scales excrete honeydew, armored scales do not

• Confirm there is honeydew, then see scale insects

Likely cause: Aphids; UC IPM says they curl leaves and produce sticky honeydew

• Wipe or rinse them off; see aphids

Likely cause: Dry mix supports an underwatering direction, but recovery time cannot be promised.

When it fits: The mix is dry and the whole plant has lost turgor.

• Water thoroughly and slowly according to the plant type until drainage runs through.
• Empty the saucer and wait for the next appropriate dry point.

Likely cause: Drooping with wet mix is not a reason to add more water.

When it fits: The mix remains wet while the plant is limp.

• Pause watering, empty standing water and keep airflow and light stable.

Likely cause: Possibly pot-bound, too little soil to hold water

• See root-bound plants

Likely cause: Standing water with drooping calls for a drainage check, not more water.

When it fits: Water remains in the saucer or around the base.

• Empty standing water and place the pot where it can drain and receive airflow.
• Wait for the appropriate dry point before considering more water.

Likely cause: A wet root zone still may not be ready for water even when the saucer is empty.

When it fits: There is no visible saucer water, but the mix remains wet and the plant droops.

• Pause watering and keep the environment stable.

Likely cause: Roots may already be damaged and unable to take up water

• Do not water again, check root colour and texture

Likely cause: Environmental change may be a clue, but moisture and pests still need checking.

When it fits: Leaf drop follows a move, repot or direct cold airflow.

• Keep it in a suitable stable position away from direct drafts.
• Water from the mix condition and do not fertilize just because leaves drop.

Likely cause: Without a recent change, do not attribute all leaf drop to shock.

When it fits: Position, temperature and pot have been stable but leaves still drop.

• Keep conditions stable and pause unnecessary changes to water or fertilizer.

Likely cause: Disturbed roots cannot keep up with water loss from leaves (our inference; principle in)

• Keep it in a steady place, do not feed, water again only when the mix has dried to a suitable point

Likely cause: A sudden environmental change is one possible direction, but check roots, moisture and pests first.

When it fits: Green-leaf drop follows a move, AC or temperature change.

• Return to stable suitable light and avoid direct drafts.
• Water according to the mix rather than flooding after green-leaf drop.

Likely cause: Heavy green-leaf drop without a recent change needs a step-by-step moisture, drainage, pest and light check.

When it fits: The position is stable but leaf drop continues.

• Keep the position stable and hold extra water or fertilizer.

Likely cause: Sudden light change

• Keep the new spot and avoid more moves; adjust gradually next time

Likely cause: Insufficient light can stretch the internodes, but existing leggy growth will not shorten immediately.

When it fits: New growth stretches toward light and the position is dim.

• Improve light first and keep moisture appropriate for the plant.

Likely cause: If light is already adequate, check species, season, pruning and root conditions.

When it fits: The plant is bright enough but new stems remain thin and stretched.

• Keep light stable and hold strong fertilizer.

Likely cause: Low light reduces variegation

• Add light and trim plain green shoots

Likely cause: Low light or a cold draft may be limiting new-leaf development.

When it fits: New leaves are small, stems stretch and the position is dim or drafty.

• Improve light, avoid direct AC and hold fertilizer for now.

Likely cause: With adequate light, check moisture, drainage, root space and season before adding nutrients.

When it fits: Light is stable but new leaves remain small or pale.

• Keep light and position stable and water for the species.

Likely cause: Root-bound pot

• Check the roots; go up one pot size if needed

Likely cause: Low light, cold or adjustment after a move can slow growth.

When it fits: Stalling coincides with dim light, cold/AC or a move.

• Keep moisture appropriate and do not force growth with fertilizer.

Likely cause: If conditions are stable, check moisture, root space, pests and season.

When it fits: Light is suitable but growth remains stalled.

• Keep the current care rhythm and avoid major changes for now.

Likely cause: Seasonal slowdown or rest

• Do not feed, water less, wait for warmer weather

Likely cause: Direct AC or a move can coincide with slower new growth; stabilize conditions first.

When it fits: The pause in new growth follows the environmental change.

• Move away from direct drafts while keeping suitable light, and stop repeated moves.
• Water from the mix condition rather than chasing growth with fertilizer.

Likely cause: If the timing does not fit, use the general stalled-growth checks for light, moisture, roots and pests.

When it fits: Stalling did not follow the change closely.

• Keep conditions stable without major water or fertilizer changes.

Likely cause: Cold or sudden change; tropical plants are more prone to chilling above freezing

• Check the temperature where it stands; avoid vents and cold glass

Likely cause: A persistently wet root zone needs attention; do not water by calendar.

When it fits: The deeper mix stays wet or the saucer repeatedly fills.

• Pause watering, empty standing water and improve airflow.

Likely cause: A dry surface does not prove a dry root zone; check deeper before watering.

When it fits: Only the surface feels dry and the root zone has not been checked.

• Hold water until deeper moisture is known.

Likely cause: More often too much water, with low oxygen around the roots

• Stop watering, lift the pot, unpot to check roots

Likely cause: Restricted drainage is an environmental issue that can be corrected first.

When it fits: There is no hole, a blockage or persistent saucer water.

• Empty the saucer and pause extra watering.

Likely cause: With visible drainage, check deeper moisture, light and roots rather than adding more water.

When it fits: Holes are clear and the saucer is empty, but the plant still has symptoms.

• Keep drainage clear and water according to plant type.

Likely cause: Fine mix or short pot, so the saturated zone is a large share

• Let the mix dry, empty the saucer, and consider a coarser mix

Likely cause: A soft or smelly base needs prompt human review, but it is not a confirmed diagnosis.

When it fits: The base is soft, dark or smells unusual, especially with persistently wet mix.

• Pause watering, separate from other plants as a precaution and improve airflow.

Likely cause: Wet mix alone is not enough to conclude root damage.

When it fits: There is no soft base or unusual smell.

• Pause watering until the appropriate depth dries and empty standing water.

Likely cause: Commonly root rot

• Trim soft roots, repot in fresh mix; see root rot

Likely cause: Old, compacted mix or crowded roots can affect watering; inspect before repotting.

When it fits: Water runs along the edges or roots visibly crowd the holes or surface.

• Pick a pot one size up, with drainage holes. Montana State suggests about a third wider and deeper. For pots under 25 cm, the RHS suggests 2.5–5 cm more in width and depth.
• Slide the plant out and check the outer roots. Illinois says to cut or unwind circling roots; Montana State says to pull them gently apart.

Likely cause: With normal watering behaviour, return to moisture, light and leaf checks.

When it fits: There is no visible crowding or abnormal flow.

• Keep the current pot and water for the plant type.

Likely cause: Commonly root-bound

• Consider repotting and loosening roots

Likely cause: A saprophytic fungus, common on mix that stays moist

• Scrape off the top layer, let the surface dry, improve airflow

Likely cause: A slime mould, which is not a true fungus and does not attack plants

• Remove it or leave it to dry out; check the mix is not too wet

Likely cause: Probably fertiliser or water minerals (our own inference, not mould)

• It will not spread like mould; compare with the signs of fertiliser burn

Likely cause: Fertiliser burn or salt build-up

• Stop feeding, remove crust, flush

Likely cause: Underwatering or dry air

• See brown leaf tips; water thoroughly

Likely cause: Waterlogging or root rot; Nebraska says high salts often go with root rot

• Unpot and inspect; see root rot

Likely cause: Fixed white clusters can indicate a visible pest direction, but appearance alone cannot identify the pest.

When it fits: Clusters stay on undersides, nodes or petioles and may have sticky residue nearby.

• Separate it from other plants as a precaution and improve airflow.
• Use water or a damp cloth only on surfaces the plant tolerates.

Likely cause: More likely mealybugs

• Isolate and follow the treatment steps

Likely cause: More likely mineral deposit than an insect

• See white spots on leaves

Likely cause: Fine webbing with speckles can fit a mite direction, but the underside needs close inspection.

When it fits: Speckles appear in a dry setting with fine webbing underneath.

• Improve airflow and clean foliage only in a way the plant tolerates.
• Separate for observation and avoid extreme wetness or sun.

Likely cause: Without a clear dry-air clue, first rule out dust, scorch and other spots.

When it fits: Speckles or web-like appearance cannot be confirmed.

• Separate for observation and keep airflow.

Likely cause: More likely spider mites

• Move the plant away from others so leaves do not touch.
• In a shower or sink, rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, especially all leaf undersides. WSU suggests repeating at least weekly and wrapping a bag around the pot to keep soil in.

Likely cause: Fixed shell-like bumps can fit a scale-insect direction, but photos and undersides are needed to triage.

When it fits: Bumps stay on stems, petioles or undersides with sticky residue.

• Keep airflow and record the area and count.
• Use water or a damp cloth only on surfaces the plant tolerates.

Likely cause: Soft scale, often brown soft scale

• Isolate, remove one by one, recheck every few days

Likely cause: Armored scale, which generally makes no honeydew

• Hand removal matters more; product choices differ from soft scale

Likely cause: A powdery appearance can fit a fungal direction, but appearance alone is not a diagnosis.

When it fits: Leaves have an even powdery coating in a stuffy or leaf-wet setting.

• Reduce prolonged leaf wetness and separate the affected plant for observation.

Likely cause: Spreading brown spots need a check of direct sun, leaf wetness, airflow and pests.

When it fits: Brown spots enlarge, especially with high humidity or poor airflow.

• Keep foliage dry, improve airflow and separate cautiously if needed.
• Remove only leaves that are fully dead and loose.

Likely cause: Powdery mildew is more likely

• Isolate and remove the worst leaves

Likely cause: Fungus gnats

• Try the potato test for larvae

Likely cause: More likely fruit flies, a distinct insect

• Clear ripe fruit and waste; not a pot problem

Likely cause: Shore flies, which differ from fungus gnats in antenna length

• Cut standing water and algae

Likely cause: Aphids

• Isolate, wash, wipe, check curled leaves

Likely cause: Shed skins, often mistaken for live insects

• Wipe off and recheck for live ones

Likely cause: Possibly scale; see scale insects

• Scrape test

Likely cause: Thrips feeding is a common cause

• Tap leaves over white paper; isolate; see distorted new leaves

Likely cause: Spider mites and other sap-suckers can leave similar stippling

• Check leaf undersides with a lens; see spider mites

Likely cause: Whiteflies, with honeydew

• See whiteflies

Likely cause: Whiteflies are a common cause

• Check leaf undersides; isolate; see sticky leaves

Likely cause: Thrips are more likely; UC IPM describes them as tiny and slender

• See thrips

Likely cause: Sooty mould growing on honeydew, which comes from sap-sucking insects

• Read black sooty mould on leaves and look for the source

Likely cause: Adult fungus gnat

• Check whether the mix stays wet; see fungus gnats

Likely cause: Springtail

• Dry the surface; sprays are usually unnecessary

Likely cause: Pillbug (a crustacean, not an insect)

• Clear damp debris and check how wet the mix is

Likely cause: Snails or slugs

• Check the pot rim and base at night

Likely cause: Possibly caterpillars or other chewing insects

• UC IPM says trails help separate them; see holes in leaves

Likely cause: Honeydew pests such as aphids or mealybugs may be nearby

• Check leaf undersides and shoots; see sticky leaves

Likely cause: Fungal leaf spot is more likely

• Remove leaves, reduce leaf wetness

Likely cause: Possibly bacterial leaf spot

• Isolate and keep leaves dry

Likely cause: Bacterial more likely; other rot may be present

• Isolate quickly; discard if widespread

Likely cause: Grey mould is likely

• Isolate, remove infected tissue

Likely cause: Possibly powdery mildew rather than grey mould

• See powdery mildew

Likely cause: Possibly sooty mould, often linked to honeydew

• See black sooty mould

Likely cause: Rust is more likely

• Isolate, remove leaves

Likely cause: Normal fern spore clusters (sori)

• No treatment; keep watching for real symptoms

Likely cause: Possibly scale insects

• See scale insects

Likely cause: A virus is more likely

• Isolate, consider testing

Likely cause: Possibly a nutrient or pH issue (our inference)

• See yellow new leaves with green veins

Likely cause: Possibly thrips, which can also carry viruses

• See thrips

Likely cause: Low light or too much nitrogen

• Check light first, then the fertiliser label

Likely cause: Missed rest period, wrong day length or night temperature, or buds pruned off

• Check the species' bloom season and when you last pruned

Likely cause: Not yet mature

• Keep care steady for a season or two

Likely cause: Draught or temperature shock

• Move out of the airflow and keep conditions steady

Likely cause: Weaker light, no night cooling, sudden change

• Return to similar light and temperature, and stop moving it

Likely cause: Short drought

• Check the mix and water evenly

Likely cause: Mix still holds water

• Wait until the root ball dries

Likely cause: Soil staying moist is a common cause

• Let it dry more and add airflow; see mould on soil

Likely cause: Possible overwatering

• See overwatered or underwatered

Likely cause: Light too strong, or a recent move closer to a window or balcony

• Move out of afternoon sun and raise light in stages; damaged leaves will not recover

Likely cause: Overheated pot or too little water

• Shade the pot sides, check the soil with a finger, then water through if dry

Likely cause: Wet mix plus warmth favours root disease

• Stop watering, empty the saucer, unpot and check roots; see root rot

Likely cause: Wind burn or salt spray are more likely

• Water the plant and hold off pruning

Likely cause: Possibly salt spray, depending on location

• Rinse leaves with fresh water when it is safe, then consider flushing the mix

Likely cause: Physical damage

• Stand it up and clear snapped parts; repot quickly if roots were exposed (our suggestion)

Likely cause: Chill damage is more likely

• Move to a warm, sheltered spot, do not cut yet, reassess after 3-7 days

Likely cause: Cold damage is common here

• Check the plant's temperature needs and move it from the cold spot

Likely cause: RHS says draughts can cause yellowing and dry edges, so wind may be the issue, not just cold

• Check airflow; see plants in air-conditioned rooms

Likely cause: Wind drying leaves, or salt spray

• Add shelter first, then look for white residue on leaves

Likely cause: Salt spray

• Rinse leaves with fresh water (our inference) and check pot drainage

Likely cause: Overheated outer roots (our inference from nursery data)

• Shade the pot wall, use a lighter pot, move off the wall

Likely cause: Precautions should be taken

• Start counting pots on the balcony, ledges and railings (our suggestion)

Likely cause: Secure objects likely to be blown away or take them indoors

• Bring pots inside or down to the floor, starting with hanging and high ones

Likely cause: Complete all precautions before gales commence; do not stand near windows on the exposed side

• Stop moving pots. Keep away from the balcony door and windows

Likely cause: Lily or daylily, kidney risk

• Call a vet at once; do not wait for vomiting

Likely cause: Sago palm, liver risk

• Call a vet at once

Likely cause: Calcium oxalate irritation

• Call a vet with plant name and time

Likely cause: Too dry

• Rewet slowly by bottom watering

Likely cause: Dried mix repelling water

• Submerge or bottom water; see water runs straight through

Likely cause: Overwatering or root rot

• Stop watering, unpot and check; see root rot

Likely cause: Time to water

• Water it through

Likely cause: No need yet

• Check again in a day or two

Likely cause: Mix may have dried

• Confirm with the finger test

Likely cause: Pot-bound roots

• Loosen the roots and move to a slightly larger pot

Likely cause: Only some roots have escaped (our own inference)

• Unpot to check, then repot or trim the stray roots

Likely cause: Roots fill the pot and store little water

• Unpot and look; also rule out other causes

Likely cause: Mealybugs are likely; adults have a waxy coat

• Spot treat or wash; see mealybugs

Likely cause: Possibly spider mites

• Wash leaf undersides; see spider mites

Likely cause: Honeydew from aphids, scale or mealybugs

• Trace the source; see sticky leaves

Likely cause: Possibly aphids

• Keep isolated and wash leaves; see aphids

Likely cause: Mealybugs are more likely

• Keep isolated; see mealybugs

Likely cause: Possibly spider mites

• Keep isolated; see spider mites

Likely cause: May involve chlorine or fluoride

• Let water stand overnight and flush the pot, then watch for change

Likely cause: May be salt build-up

• Flush out the salts

Likely cause: May be minerals left by evaporated water

• Water the soil, not the leaves; see white spots on leaves

Likely cause: May be dry air

• Move it away from the vent; see plants in air-conditioned rooms

Likely cause: May not be humidity; salts or water quality possible

• See brown leaf tips

Likely cause: Air may be too moist, not too dry

• Improve ventilation; see Hong Kong's humid season

Likely cause: Possibly low nutrients; New Hampshire says stunted growth with yellow or purple tints may call for balanced feed

• Feed lightly in the growing season at the right strength and watch new leaves

Likely cause: Possibly salt build-up

• Stop feeding, flush the pot, see fertiliser burn

Likely cause: Possibly low oxygen at the roots rather than hunger

• Unpot and check roots, see root rot

Likely cause: Possibly high pH limiting iron and other micronutrients, though other causes exist

• Read yellow new leaves with green veins, then test pH

Likely cause: Possible salt build-up

• Flush first and read brown leaf tips; test EC afterwards for a baseline

Likely cause: Possibly fertiliser too strong

• Stop feeding, read fertiliser burn; confirm with EC

Likely cause: Light may be too low

• Measure PPFD; see leggy plants

Likely cause: Low light or other causes

• See smaller new leaves and measure light

Likely cause: Light may be too strong

• Step back or add a sheer curtain; see leaf sunburn

Likely cause: Possibly dry air or another environmental issue; trimming only tidies

• Snip the dry part with sharp scissors; find the cause in brown leaf tips

Likely cause: Ageing or stress; leaving them looks untidy

• Remove with sanitised snips; tidiness helps reduce pest and disease problems

Likely cause: Often low light (leggy growth)

• Light trimming can encourage fuller growth; also fix the light, see leggy plants

Likely cause: Stem cuttings

• Pothos, philodendron and monstera are listed for cuttings; dumb cane and dracaena respond well to stem sections

Likely cause: Division

• Snake plant and peace lily; Missouri Extension calls division the easiest method for plants that make offsets

Likely cause: Natural layering

• Spider plant and strawberry begonia

Likely cause: Seasonal slowdown

• Water less, pause feeding, keep watching

Likely cause: Still actively growing

• Care for it as a growing plant

Likely cause: Overwatering damaging the roots

• Stop watering, unpot and check; see root rot

Likely cause: Water thoroughly, move to a cooler spot or away from a bright window

• Test the method. USask advises trying a watering method before you leave to see what suits your plants.
• Group plants together. Missouri Extension suggests grouping them for easier access to water.

Likely cause: Self-watering pot, pebble tray, or bathtub with towels; move off warm windowsills

• Test the method. USask advises trying a watering method before you leave to see what suits your plants.
• Group plants together. Missouri Extension suggests grouping them for easier access to water.

Likely cause: Wick from a raised reservoir; still water before leaving

• Test the method. USask advises trying a watering method before you leave to see what suits your plants.
• Group plants together. Missouri Extension suggests grouping them for easier access to water.

Likely cause: There is no fixed number of cups or millilitres. Water until it runs out of the base.

• Check first: push a finger in about one to two inches and water if it feels dry.
• Water slowly until it runs from the drainage holes, rather than a little each time.

Likely cause: Push a long dowel to the bottom of a large pot. Wet soil sticks to it or darkens it.

• For light pots, you can compare the weight when wet and dry.
• Do not lift a large pot yourself just to weigh it.

Likely cause: With a drained pot inside a cover pot, judge by the inner pot draining, not by how dry the cover pot looks.

• If the inner pot is safe to move, water it somewhere suitable, let it drain, then return it to the emptied cover pot.
• A large or fixed setup needs someone who can handle it safely. Do not tilt a heavy pot alone.

Likely cause: Do not water just because it arrived. Check the soil first.

• Push a finger in about one to two inches. Water if dry, or wait a day or two and recheck if moist.
• When you water, water through, then empty the saucer.

Likely cause: Usually not. New plants seldom need immediate repotting, and repotting adds strain.

• Observe first and repot only if the roots are pot-bound or rotting.

Likely cause: Slight drooping or losing a few old leaves can be adjustment.

• Check the soil first: water through if too dry, and suspect waterlogging if it stays cold and wet.
• For now, avoid fertiliser, further moves and big changes in light.
• If it keeps getting worse or lower leaves turn yellow and soft, check the roots.

Likely cause: If it is still firmly attached, note it and watch. There is no need for a big tidy-up cut.

• Take a photo so you can compare later.

Likely cause: Treat fully broken or tearing parts according to the plant and the wound.

• Use clean tools.
• See the pruning guide for where and how to cut.

Likely cause: Stop it tearing further first, then treat it according to the plant and damage.

• Ask someone who knows the plant to assess it. Tape alone does not fix it.

Likely cause: Glass does not soften direct sun by itself. Beside the glass, behind a sheer curtain and in a corner are three different kinds of light.

• Watch it as you really use the curtains, including afternoon west sun, not just the brightest moment.
• Do not move it straight from a dim spot into strong sun.

Likely cause: Start in a sheltered, safe spot away from strong direct sun. Not every houseplant needs to go outside.

• Keep it on stable ground inside the balcony, never on a railing top or outside a window.
• Change one thing at a time, and move back if scorch appears.
• Outdoors, do not keep the indoor watering routine.

Likely cause: Move it closer to a window first. Light falls quickly with distance, so small moves matter.

• Move gradually, as plants moved from bright to dim may drop or yellow leaves.
• If still short, add a grow light, keeping total light to 16 hours a day at most.

Likely cause: The key is leaving no standing water, not watering less.

• Empty saucers after watering, and check saucers, cover pots and stands weekly.
• Do not add chemicals, oil or insecticide to plant water.

Likely cause: A drier mix surface matters most. Yellow traps only monitor and cut adult numbers.

• Egg to adult takes about three to four weeks, so keep going.

Likely cause: Keep new plants, and plants that have been outdoors, apart until you are sure they have no pests.

• Check them each time you water.

Likely cause: Work out whether it is new growth towards light, natural spread, or a stem or pot losing stability. Slow change and sudden collapse are different problems.

• Turning the pot only adjusts light direction. An older woody bend will not straighten from one turn.
• If light is short overall, turning the pot will not add any.

Likely cause: Identify the main stem that needs support, then check there is a suitable spot in the pot.

• Do not force a thick stake into a dense rootball.
• Use soft ties and check they have not tightened as the plant grows.

Likely cause: Our guides do not say when each training material should come off. First see if it is still holding the plant up, and ask before removing it if unsure.

• Ties and training wire should not be tight. Check regularly that they are not cutting into stems or bark.

Likely cause: Dust first, then wipe both sides with a well-wrung damp cloth.

• Choose morning or evening, and wipe gently along the veins.
• Let it air dry afterwards, out of the sun.

Likely cause: Do not use water on fuzzy leaves. Brush the dust away with a soft brush.

• Be gentle and do not rub hard.

Likely cause: Do not use leaf shine products, as they can clog the pores.

• Proper cleaning and good light are what work.

Likely cause: Washing alone is not enough. Check its condition, past use and drainage, then clean it.

• Stop using a cracked, brittle or sharp pot, or one that held unknown chemicals.
• If it held a diseased plant, discard or disinfect it, cleaning inside and out.

Likely cause: For a normal repot, add fresh mix around the rootball at the same depth. Rot or mould is different and depends on the roots.

• Do not use garden soil.
• Trim any soft, rotted roots. If there are many, follow the root rot guide.

Likely cause: Tease out circling roots and move to a slightly larger pot, at most one third larger.

• Very congested roots can be trimmed lightly. The RHS gives up to about 15%, as a guide only.
• Do not jump several sizes.

Likely cause: Too much water

• Stop watering, check soil depth and the pot base

Likely cause: Possibly too dry, or roots too damaged to take up water

• Check soil, then unpot and look at the roots

Likely cause: Direct sun can scorch leaves; draughts or dry air may also dry them

• Move to bright diffuse light, away from vents

Likely cause: Overwatering, rhizome rot

• Stop watering, unpot and inspect rhizomes

Likely cause: Rhizome may be rotting

• Unpot, cut away rotted parts

Likely cause: Clemson says this is normal

• No action, just watch

Likely cause: Overwatering or low light

• Pause watering and check the roots; see root rot

Likely cause: Medium too wet

• Water less and improve drainage

Likely cause: Weak light

• Move gradually towards brighter light

Likely cause: Dry air, heat source or strong fertiliser

• Move from vents; feed at half strength; see brown leaf tips

Likely cause: Swinging room temperature

• Move away from the airflow

Likely cause: Too much direct sun

• Shift to gentler light

Likely cause: Often overwatering and root rot

• Stop watering and unpot to check

Likely cause: Possibly too dry (NYBG uses puckering as a watering cue)

• Water slowly

Likely cause: Possibly cold damage (source is about landscape plants)

• Do not rush to water; see cold snaps

Likely cause: Possibly too much fertiliser

• Change to clean water and feed less

Likely cause: Possibly overwatering or stem rot (source describes potted plants)

• Check the stalk base; see stem rot

Likely cause: Possibly too much light

• Move to bright, non-direct light

Likely cause: Wind or draughts is the most common explanation

• Move away from airflow or shelter the balcony. Cut badly tattered leaves at the base

Likely cause: The RHS lists it as a sign of poor conditions. Water quality or salts may also play a part (our inference)

• Check the mix, drainage, humidity and feeding in that order

Likely cause: We found no source on curling. Underwatering is a plausible guess, with weak evidence

• Check the roots and mix before adding water

Likely cause: Overwatering or standing water

• Stop watering, check the drainage hole, empty the saucer

Likely cause: Thirst. Succulents do not wilt like other plants but look desiccated

• Soak and let the excess drain, then watch for a few days

Likely cause: Possible root rot. Iowa State says this is often mistaken for underwatering

• Unpot and check roots. See root rot

Likely cause: Root damage, so the plant cannot take up water

• Unpot, trim damaged roots, use fresh mix

Likely cause: Too dry, roots shrinking

• Restore regular watering step by step

Likely cause: Strong sun can scorch leaves

• Move to bright light behind a sheer curtain

Likely cause: Too little light, or too much water or feed

• Move to full sun, cut watering and nitrogen

Likely cause: Common after a flowering period

• Wait; do not rush to feed

Likely cause: Overwatering can cause leaf drop

• Check soil, water only once dry

Likely cause: Lemon tree essentials from our care guide. Day counts are a guide, so check the soil first.

• Light: 6+ hrs direct sun; south/west balcony
• Watering: Water when top 2–3 cm is dry; every 2–3 days in summer
• Placement: Sunny south- or west-facing balcony, terrace or rooftop

Likely cause: Golden fig essentials from our care guide. Day counts are a guide, so check the soil first.

• Light: 4–6 hrs bright indirect light or partial sun
• Watering: Water when top 3 cm is dry; every 5–7 days in spring–summer
• Placement: East- or south-facing balcony; shade west sun in summer

Likely cause: Areca palm essentials from our care guide. Day counts are a guide, so check the soil first.

• Light: Bright indirect light; east/north window, 1–2 m back
• Watering: Water when top 3 cm is dry; every 4–6 days in summer
• Placement: East- or north-facing window, away from air-con vents